Animal sacrifice? WTF?

Me at Kalighat Temple

Oh Kolkata!

“Wow, now that is one huge green city” was my thought as we flew over in the plane. Once at ground level it was confirmed. I have mainly heard of Calcutta in terms of slums, a musical, “the black hole of...” and Mother Teresa working with the poor, but it is 15 million people living in a city full of waterways and greenery and culture. Cleaner than your average Indian city and chock-a-block full of amazing architecture, Kolkata is an appealing place to do some tourism. Not that we have seen many foreign tourists, but mainly Indians traveling within their own country. 

It’s steamy here, too. We noticed many Bengalis have umbrellas for the sun because it’s so hot it feels like it’s going to light you on fire. I enjoy the sensation but I am told that I am crazy.

Our guesthouse situation has been a bit awkward. We showed up with our online booking confirmation in hand and no one was expecting us. The owner made sounds as if the online company didn’t tell him but it sounded like he doesn’t really check his email. Anyway, we got rooms. And then we ordered dinner in with G & K stressing “no spices.” He assured us they only eat mild food themselves. When dinner time came I was the only one who could eat it. It was way too spicy for my friends. During dinner the host came down to ask us what we thought of the food, was shocked we found it hot and then argued with us that the chilies don’t make it hot. It was a bit uncomfortable between him giving us the gears that it’s not hot and then yelling at the houseboy and cook. Then I made the essential mistake of asking for something to drink. They don’t have anything cold but Coke (not even water), and I won’t touch that shit. The host didn’t want me going out to buy something but he didn’t have anything. Eventually he got some bottles of water to put in the fridge for us. I don’t get the sense they are used to Westerners and our expectations such as drinks with meals. 

The big excursions so far have been the Victoria Memorial and the Kalighat Temple. Note to self: if I see a temple has a sacrifice/immolation gate then I shouldn’t go in. A very friendly priest introduced us to the temple and showed us around, including the animal sacrifice area where some poor beast was being sacrificed to Kali. I didn’t look and just got the hell out of there, stopping only for a Kali sticker. Just say no to animal sacrifice. 

We saw hijiras outside the Victoria Memorial going from car to car giving blessings in exchange for rupees. They do a distinctive clap to break their social invisibility and tap on windows with the edge of a coin. Maybe I can get a blessing tomorrow to wash the taint of dead animal off my soul.