The city that never sleeps

Or maybe it's just me.

I've been roaming all night communing with the frogs and mosquitos. It's not easy to find a place to perch with so many of the benches guarded by the scary looking spirits in the photos. They're not so noticeable by day but they're pretty damn freaky by night.

Thais are animists, no matter what their religion of record. Buddhist monks, Muslims, Christians all pay respects as they pass the ubiquitous spirit shrines. Traditional Thai houses have very high thresholds to keep evil spirits out and infants in. I'm not entirely sure they have their priorities straight on that one.

Yesterday I went into downtown Bangkok and immediately wandered into a closed off protest camp. (Honestly, anyone surprised?) There was no violence (unless you include the "music" coming from the stage) but tensions were high. There was the protest camp which went on for blocks and blocks with army and police posts on the perimeter and everyone had their glare on. I just lumbered along gormlessly, admiring the Thaksin devil effigies and "Retake Thailand" t-shirts before getting my stupid farang ass out of there.

As you walk the streets of Bangkok, you will literally have your breath taken away by the street vendors cooking up hot chilies. The spice cuts off your air momentarily until you can cough your way back to breathing. That was when I realized that pepper spray is probably useless against Thais. A handy thing to cultivate when you are coup prone.

A group of us went to one of the night markets last night to stuff ourselves with Thai food, ride the Ferris wheel and gape at an eccentric array of consumer goods. They had a fish pedicure stall which came directly from my worst nightmares. You stick your feet into tanks of fish and they eat the skin off your feet. Whyyyyyyy? Then I noticed it was flanked by Japanese restaurants where I imagine the most common question is, "Does this sushi taste like feet to you?"

Shudder.