Notes from the Blue City

K & I left Udaipur on the 5th, driving through the desert towards Jodhpur. I already knew I would miss “chill out” Udaipur but I was even sadder once I saw they had a “Hello!!!! Pagan” restaurant that I hadn’t even tried. 

Nobody warned me that Udaipur was in the middle of the Aravalli mountain range. I should have understood that as I stood at the Monsoon Palace at the top of a mountain, looking at all the other mountains around me. That meant a lot of gut-churning up and down switchback driving before hitting the Thar Desert. That also meant the next day was spent getting friendly with Porcelain Polly while K & G roamed the town.

Despite turning my tummy, the drive was gorgeous. We saw a surprising amount of green and trees alongside the cacti and scrub. There were monkeys and trees full of huge screaming fruit bats. Shepherds in their huge crimson turbans drove flocks of sheep and goats along the roads.

Then we were finally in Jodhpur, staying right in the shadow of the mighty Mehrangarh Fort. My first impression was that the largest difference between Udaipur & old town Jodhpur is noise volume. G thinks it may be filth level. Jodhpur is loud, grabby and world-class grimy, and I’m comparing to other Indian cities here. It’s predominant odour is piss.

Things Jodhpur is famous for:

Mehrangarh Fort - and reasonably so. We toured it today and it’s majestic and fantastical. Rudyard Kipling said it was “the work of angels, fairies and giants....” I think that’s nicer than what he said about the Bundi Palace being “ the work of goblins.”

Brahmin blue houses - once only members of the priestly caste could paint their houses with indigo, but now anyone is allowed. Because so many Brahmins lived in the shadow of the fort Jodhpur became known as the Blue City.

Makhania lassis - saffron in yoghurt? Yes please. Make sure to have them at the Shri Mishrilal Hotel where they serve them by the tray to Jodpuri locals who asked us, “do you even know what this is?” And were amazed that we did. When it comes to local edible specialities, we’re no fools. 

The Sardar Market around the Clocktower - this is where re-sellers come to aggressively hard sell to tourists and Indians who come in from the countryside. It’s initially interesting but quickly becomes tiresome. There are some beautiful pasta noodle colours, though. Makes me wonder what they use to dye ‘em.

Rose mint lemonade - although this may only be famous to me. 

Polo and (of course) Jodhpurs - where did you think they came from?

There are some old men arguing very loudly under my window. I am tempted to go all Marwar warrior and pour hot oil on them from my haveli window. All I have is some jasmine hair oil and a lighter but I’m sure my point would be made.